From the places where I have eaten mutton biryani outside, some good ones are DumBir by KCK, SS Biryani ( multiple outlets call 04440104010) and Behrouz Biryani ( multiple outlets call 07700050050), which deserves a notable mention because of its rice to mutton ratio.” Abbas Shahzad, founder, Butterheads Serai Gosht Biryani at ITC Grand Chola and wedding-style biryani from Arifapas I think the Bohri-style layered mutton biryani mum makes at home is the best in the world. “I am the pickiest and fussiest person when it comes to biryani. Lastly, Gilli Biryani at Taj Coromandel’s Anise is another comforting favourite!” Mathangi Kumar, chef and culinary consultant Mutton biryani from DumBir by KCK, SS Biryani and Behrouz Biryani The gucchi pulao is another winner on the menu, while the Kashmiri morrel and saffron pulao is one of a kind. Despite being prepared probably in tons of ghee, it doesn’t feel heavy. “ Jamavar ( Ground level, The Leela Palace, MRC Nagar call 4433661234) serves succulent mutton biryani in a sizable portion for its price. With every mouthful I feel I have travelled to some exotic land.” Kiran Rao, owner, Amethyst Hyderabadi Gosht Biryani from Jamavar A Thalassery biryani is such a wonderful amalgam of flavours and influences from outside and within Kerala. There’s also Yaa Mohaideen ( Periyar Nagar, Pallavaram call 04448541717) that does a good version of this particular style of biryani.” Ashwin Rajagopalan, consultant and lifestyle writer “The biryani at DumBir is cooked with aromatic spices and short-grained Kaima rice and is available in mutton, chicken, fish, prawn, egg and vegetable options. For Ambur biryani, one place that comes close is Buhari ( 83, Anna Salai, Border Thottam, Padupakkam, Triplicane call 04428551951 website). It is probably one of the best biryani in Chennai for me, as it's faithful to the original thing that you get in Kerala. “ Kappa Chakka Kandhari (KCK) ( 10, Haddows Rd, Thousand Lights West, Nungambakkam call 04428281010 order here) serves Kerala’s Thalassery biryani which is true to its style. Our panel of Chennai tastemakers add to this debate: Thalassery Biryani from DumBir Add pan-Indian favourites like the Hyderabadi, Lucknowi and even the Kolkata-style biryani and you get my drift about Chennai’s biryani creds. Then there’s the Thalassery version that has gained cult status thanks to a wave of Kerala cuisine restaurants. But that has changed over the past two decades as biryani from Dindigul, cooked with the small grain seeraga samba rice, has acquired a large legion of fans. For many in Chennai, this was the gold standard for biryani. Quite a few of my school mates had a strong connection with Ambur, a town with a global reputation for leather goods, and a biryani that’s worth driving from Chennai or Bengaluru (Ambur is almost halfway on the Chennai-Bengaluru highway). My tryst with my favourite biryani began in Don Bosco Egmore. Best biryani in Chennai: Ambur, Dindigul, Thalassery? In Chennai, this discussion happens at two levels–what is the best biryani and where do you get the best version of that in the city. The owner of a tiny establishment asked me to leave, when I asked for a spoon. I learnt that the hard way in Dindigul, one of South India’s marquee biryani towns. Now, this would usually bring the knives out but luckily, in Chennai, or anywhere in Tamil Nadu, biryani is best enjoyed without cutlery. Let me start on a bold note: Chennai is the best major Indian metro for biryani.
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